Still in Cusco

Thursday 5 July 2007 Cusco is proving easier to get into than to get out of. I finished the Inca Trail last Sunday evening and I planned to spend two nights back in Cusco relaxing before heading south to Le Paz in Bolivia. My overnight bus was all booked for Tuesday evening and I'd checked out of my hotel room in the morning but I got a message late on Tuesday from my travel local agent to say the bus was cancelled due to protesters (I think they're teachers) blocking for the road south of Cusco which is my route to Le Paz. Today I've seen a picture in the paper where the protestors set light to a police vehicle, so they're obviously serious.

Unable to get away I moved back into the hotel but I had to move hotel yesterday because this one was already booked up last night with a large group arriving. So last night I was back in the first hotel and the same room I was in two weeks ago when I first arrived in Cusco. Happily the price has gone down.

Tonight I am supposed to be leaving on a bus at 11pm. The bus company is trying another route to drive around the protest, which is a bit worrying on a couple of scores. Firstly if the protestors find out they may try and block the other road. Secondly Peru is notorious for coach crashes so having coach driver following a route he's (it's always a he) not familiar with at night is a bit more risky. However I can't stay here forever so I'll take the chance.

It also means the journey will be several hours longer i.e. total 21 hours. which is going to be a bit of an ordeal. Stay calm, stay calm!

In the last few days I've really had to work hard at killing time. I´ve read a book, sat an hour each day in each of the three city centre squares (its been lovely and sunny) saying "no graçias" continuously to the hawkers who approach me (I've had my shoes polished twice), watched films on TV in the hotel room (not an option when you've checked out like today) and had long languorous meals, oh yes of course, coming into Internet cafes.

They had a large teachers' demonstration here in Cusco today and although I saw 20 riot police lurking with helmets, shields and batons, and one with a very large bore rifle, which I think might be for tear gas, it seems it went off peacefully.

If I don't leave tonight I'll update the blog tomorrow but otherwise it will be the next opportunity, hopefully in Bolivia.